Our might cocktailian Christine Sismondo interviews author and Washington Post spirits columnist Jason Wilson. Please join me in thanking Christine for a great interview.

Boozehound: On the Trail of the Rare, the Obscure, and the Overrated in Spirits By Jason Wilson Ten Speed Press $25.99; 232 pages
By Christine Sismondo
CHRISTINE: The mid-century gin martini has taken a lot of heat lately. But there must be some reason why we all liked straight gin served very cold. Is there room for both it and the contemporary versions which are sometimes served with as much as fifty per cent vermouth?
JASON: I think what happened is that, after prohibition, we had lost a lot of bartending knowledge and people just didn’t know how to handle vermouth. After prohibition, when people added vermouth to a martini, they were adding old, spoiled wine. So of course people didn’t like it and they did a lot of things to mitigate the taste of straight gin, like adding extra olives and even the brine from the olives. At the new cocktail bars, they know how to handle vermouth and, as a result, a martini made with a lot of vermouth actually tastes good.
CHRISTINE: You live in a dry town in New Jersey. Is that on purpose – to balance out your work life?
JASON: Yes, I’m embracing the irony in my life. I live in this cute little colonial town in the suburbs of Philadelphia (across the New Jersey state line) and one of its little quirks is that it has an old blue law which forbids the sale of liquor. I don’t have to travel far, though. There are bars just on the outskirts of town.
CHRISTINE: Do you think the spirits world is in danger of becoming less fun -- more like wine writing?
JASON: I think sometimes it moves in that direction but the characters in the spirits biz are such a fun-loving group. Plus, cocktails are inherently crazier than wine. I’ve been to a few events where it gets a little dry and I think about jumping out a window. But then I start to see the humour. The insider geeky arguments over how to make a mint julep and the long debates over the proper preparation of a Manhattan can be pretty hilarious.
CHRISTINE: What about the way people talk about wine (and sometimes spirits) and compare it to things like petrol, or peanut butter sandwiches?
JASON: When you think about the wine descriptors, they really aren’t that descriptive. It isn’t very good writing, for starters, because unless somebody is already familiar with the wine, it doesn’t tell them much. I use them sometimes because it’s the language we have but, when I do, I feel kind of lazy.
CHRISTINE: Is it dangerous to admit you don’t always spit?
JASON: Sometimes you have to spit. I recently did a tasting of 80 Chilean wines and I would have been on the ground if I hadn’t spit. But with spirits you can’t spit, because the finish is so important. Is it rough? Is it hot? So you just have to be careful with how much you taste. I find my palate is ruined after about a dozen spirits anyway.
CHRISTINE: Speaking of being careful, you’re one of the few spirits writers who actually admits that sometimes it gets out of hand. In one story, you write about visiting the Fernet Branca facility with a crushing hangover. How was that?
JASON: That was an interesting visit. I was so late and so hungover. And the night before I’d lost my iPhone in a bar so I couldn’t even contact them to tell them I was running late. The whole time I was touring, all I could think was that what I really wanted was some Fernet Branca, to kill the hangover, but they never poured any for me. It’s incredible that drunkenness is never discussed in the spirits world. I think it’s because we’re still trying to prove that spirits are respectable.
CHRISTINE: Do you have a favourite cocktail?
JASON: The Manhattan or the Negroni or, combining the two, the Boulevardier, which is made with bourbon, Campari and sweet vermouth.
CHRISTINE: You’re in a bar – an ordinary bar – and you don’t want a beer. What’s a good fallback cocktail that even Sam Malone would be able to handle?
JASON: The Negroni is pretty safe cause you can easily instruct a bartender to mix equal parts of gin, Campari and sweet vermouth.
CHRISTINE: Okay, now you’re at the Lion in Berlin – or at High Five Bar in Tokyo. What cocktail do you order there?
JASON: At a place like that, I would chat with the bartenders and have them make me something that they’re excited about. I almost always do that when I go to a good place.
Christine Sismondo is the author of the forthcoming book: America Walks Into a Bar: A Spirited History of Taverns and Saloons, Speakeasies and Grog Shops (Oxford University Press, June 2011).